A última vez que dei as caras aqui no Origem Surf foi para contar minha trajetória no jornalismo, a inserção no meio da comunicação de surfe e a dificuldade de me sentir parte dela, por ser negro. Agora volto para contar sobre as conquistas que o surfe me proporcionou nesses dois anos de escrita e vivências, com o jornalismo de surfe.
por Lucas D’Assumpção
Há algumas semanas, a Janaína Pedroso lançou no Instagram do Origem, o seguinte questionamento: “Onde o surf te levou?”. A pergunta, rapidamente, me fez lembrar minha curta experiência nesses últimos dois anos de atuação no jornalismo de surfe.
A resposta, lá na rede, tem muita relação com o tema desse texto aqui. Respondi, de imediato, que “o surf me levou a entrevistar Léo Neves”, “ser amigo do Victor Ribas” e “falar com Tom Curren”. Essas frases dizem muito sobre como minha curta carreira no jornalismo de surfe teve um ápice pessoal gigante.
Na minha primeira cobertura em uma etapa do circuito brasileiro, em Cabo Frio, no Rio de Janeiro, em 2019, começo entrevistando Léo Neves, surfista histórico de Saquarema. Ali, vi que a parada começaria séria, com pompa e personalidade! Essa conversa com o Léo foi fotografada e virou um “diploma”, que me lembra como entrei de cabeça no jornalismo de surfe.
Ademais, o Victor Ribas sempre foi um ídolo do Brasil no esporte. Afinal, Vitinho foi 3° colocado no ranking da antiga ASP, em 1999, entre muitas conquistas. Então, chegar próximo a ele, era algo difícil, mas consegui por meio do meu trabalho como jornalista.
E quando imaginei que falaria com um tricampeão mundial? Honestamente, nunca. O americano Tom Curren sempre foi um deus para mim, o “rei do estilo”. Mas cheguei até ele, mesmo com meu inglês capenga, consegui a entrevista. Foi curta, mas valeu muito a pena.
Definitivamente, o surfe me levou a vários lugares, conhecer outros atletas, cobrir eventos, contar a história de surfistas locais. Porém, o contato com pessoas da cena mundial do esporte me ajudou a me sentir mais preparado.
É claro que ainda falta muito! Vejo anos pela frente, muitos planos, praias que quero conhecer, eventos que quero cobrir, surfistas que quero conhecer.
O esporte de ação me motiva. E sou adepto do ‘dos mínimos detalhes’, saber a história e peculiaridades delas é minha essência!
Ainda tem mais por vir.
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https://origemsurf.com.br/2021/05/26/jornalismo-de-surfe-mais-amor-do-que-dor/
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